The Verjus Story
I began making Napa Valley Verjus in August of 1994, while working with
David Abreu's vineyard crew in Rutherford. I had been cooking for almost
10 years, six days a week, and wanted to work outdoors and learn a little
more about viticulture and winemaking. We were thinning the Cabernet Sauvignon
at Staglin Vineyards, counting the number of clusters of grapes on each
vine, then cutting off about half of them and dropping them on the ground.
By noon our crew had done about 3 acres, and while walking back to my
truck for lunch I realized that we had dropped over ten tons of really
good grapes on the ground to rot in the sun. I had learned about verjus
from Madeleine Kamman in her School for American Chefs, and had cooked
with it a little at Stars Oakville Café. Nobody was making verjus
in the Napa Valley, and I thought with a little help, I could be the first.
I talked with David Abreu about my idea, and he supported it completely.
He told me that if I could learn how to make it, he would give me the
grapes to do it.
That afternoon, I talked to my friend Mike Chelini, the winemaker at Stony
Hill Vineyards about the plan. He offered to help me, and said I could
use the equipment at Stony Hill. That weekend, I assembled a small crew,
and we picked and processed about a ton of green Chardonnay from Star
Vineyard in Rutherford.
Since that first small batch, I have developed the following recipes using Napa Valley Verjus. I think you will find them
tasty and fairly easy to prepare. Verjus is the fusion of wine and food, and I think you will find many uses for this
ancient product.
Jim Neal